Why Gwyneth Paltrow Chooses This $27 NYC Sandwich
Marvelous. Another celebrity-endorsed $27 sandwich that’s supposed to change your life—courtesy of Gwyneth Paltrow via Goop and BuzzFeed’s latest taste-test expedition. I don’t want to be the one to say it, but here we are, dissecting a carb monster that’s been crowned “the best in the world” by Ms. Paltrow herself. According to Goop’s March 2024 newsletter (Goop.com) and a BuzzFeed review by Spencer Althouse, this signature salami-and-provolone concoction from Co. (pronounced “company”) in Manhattan has whipped foodies into a frenzy.
Let’s get the obvious out of the way: yes, it costs twenty-seven bucks for what’s essentially a sandwich. No, it doesn’t come with gold leaf or caviar. What you get is a New York–style hero loaf packed with three Italian salamis, melted provolone, oil, vinegar, hot honey, and pickled peppers. BuzzFeed’s writer claimed “velvety cheese meets peppery salami in perfect harmony” (BuzzFeed, April 2024), while Goop enthused over its “ambrosial balance of sweet and spicy” (Goop.com, March 2024). I told you so: hype can inflate prices faster than dough in a proofer.
I schlepped to Grand Central Terminal, dodged the tourist crowd, and pressed my face against the glass display. The Co. crew assembled the masterpiece in under two minutes—chefs with practiced nonchalance, dripping olive oil like they just don’t care. Bite one: a hot honey punch that singes your nostrils. Bite two: pickled peppers slice through the fat. By bite three, you realize the bread is sturdier than most relationships. It’s legitimately crafted, no doubt. Eater NYC also noted the sandwich’s cult status, pointing out the unspoken code: if you have to ask where it’s from, you’re too late (Eater.com, March 2024).
But is it worth the price tag? If you live for artisanal meats and Instagram bragging rights, maybe. If your wallet cringes at impulse food decisions, FYI: there are plenty of $10 deli heroes out there. I get it—Gwyneth Paltrow has culinary clout, and she isn’t shy about dropping her endorsement. Yet seeing the line at midday made me wonder: when did a sandwich become a status symbol? The flavor? Impressive. The markup? Predictable. The crowd? Totally on board.
In the end, I’ll salute the craftsmanship and return to my humble PB&J. Did anyone expect a different outcome? No? Thought so. And that, dear reader, is why we can’t have nice things.
Sources: Celebrity Storm and BuzzFeed (Spencer Althouse), Goop.com, Eater.com
Attribution: Creative Commons Licensed
